TELE琴颈的制作（两种方式）
两种不同的调节方式，如出一辙的制作方法，本文精彩在与制作过程中导轨的使用。I've been planning on a neck building thread for some time now. As you may know Telex has recently started a neck building thread in Tele-Tech. However it appears we are using different woods, tools and techniques. My construction pretty much follows that found in Make Your Own Electric Guitar by Melvyn Hiscock.
I've chosen to use single action truss rods since they are fairly simple to make yourself. However they do require you to rout a channel that varies in depth. For the curve of the channel I used the neck blueprint found on page 49 of the Duchossoir Strat book. In building my channel routing jig I first drew the curve onto poster board then transfered it to 2x lumber. I then cut close to the line using the bandsaw followed by sanding to the line with the Ridgid oscilating belt sander. I then ripped this piece in two and put it together glueing equal width spacers at each end. Here's the completed jig. The step pieces at each end are stops for my plunge router base.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/TrussChannelJig.jpg
Making a neck in a home workshop is all about centerlines. You need centerlines on your template, jigs and on your neck blank. Here's the centerline mark on the jig
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/ChannelJigCenterline.jpg
Before starting, I used my neck template to draw the outline, nut line and centerline on my neck blank. I'm using 5/4 hard maple from a local supplier here in Albuquerque. Here's the jig mounted on the neck blank. I routed the channel in several passes. I started at the jig high point with the 1/4 in. straight bit just touching the blank. I have the Porter-Cable micro-adjustable edge guide mounted on the Ridgid plunge router.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/RoutingTrussRodChannel.jpg
With the edge guide adjusted we're ready to rout. Here's the neck blank after routing the channel and after bandsawing the rough shape. This particular neck will be a vintage style with the adjustment at the heel. The maple I bought was a wide board and being thrifty, I am trying to get as many necks as possible from it. That's the reason for the odd shape of the blank. The shallow point of the channel was routed close to 0.495 in. deep per the Strat book.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/ChannelRoutedBandsawn.jpg
I made a neck template from 3/4 in. MDF. This thick template allows me to start the shape routing with a shallow pass on the router table. I do the neck shape routing on the router table using a pattern following bit (the bearing is below the cutter when mounted in the table) making several shallow passes .......... 1/4 in. or less. Here's the neck and template after shape routing. Here's I'm transfering the centerline and nut line from the template to the neck.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/MarkingNutLineOnMaple.jpg
With the template still attached, I mark the tuner hole location with a 1/8 in. bit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/MarkingTunerHoleLocations.jpg
After marking the tuner hole location, I remove the template and drill the tuner holes. I stop before going all the way through. I'm drilling for Kluson style tuners.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/DrillingTunerHoles.jpg
Next I thin down the headstock. I want the final thickness to be a little less than 0.6 in. so I cut it a little thicker.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/ThinningHeadstock.jpg
I use the Wagner Safety Planner mounted in the drill press to get the final thickness.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/HeadstockPlaning.jpg
I've built a jig patterned after the one in the Hiscock book for drilling the acces hole to the truss rod channel. Here are a couple of pictures of it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/AcessHoleJig1.jpg
The long 3/8 bit goes through a guide block made of hard maple and drilled at a 3 degree angle per the Strat book. Depth of 3/8 hole is 1.2 in. beyond the nut line.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/AcessHoleJig2.jpg
I've got three necks underway at this time. On the two earlier necks I drilled a 1/4 in. hole into the channel using a guide block clamped to the jig. On this one I wanted a smaller hole and didn't feel like making a guide block so I drilled this 3/16 hole freehand by eyeballing that the bit was centered in the 3/8 in. hole.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/3-16Hole.jpg
Now to do the transition between the headstock and the fretboard. I'm using the Ridgid oscillating drum sander. In this photo I'm choosing a block to raise the heel so the nut line is perpendicular to the table.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/HeadstockFretBoardTransition.jpg
Here I'm using the sander. It's easy to screw up here and sand into the headstock face so I try to stop short and do the final sanding by hand.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/HeadstockFretBoardTransition2.jpg
This shows the final sanding using the sanding drum by hand.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/HeadstockFretBoardTransition3.jpg
This picture shows the fret slot sawing set-up I used on neck #2. It should be understood that the StewMac fret slot miter box is intended for sawing fret slots in separate fret boards ....... not one piece necks. In normal use the fret board being sawed has parallel sides. This setup consists of a long board with the miter box attached in the center and MDF strips attached at either end level with the base of the miter box.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/FretMiterBoxSet-up.jpg
Here I'm sawing the slots. The neck is taped to the StewMac fret scale template. The template has notches which engage a pin in the miter box thereby making measuring unnecessary.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/FretSaw-1.jpg
Slot sawing completed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/FretSlotsCompleted.jpg
Here I'm cleaning out the nut slot with additional cuts. As you can see, if you were making a one piece Strat neck, you'd have to do some of the slots without the miter box.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/NoStrat.jpg
Although the fret slot cutting above worked out OK, it was a bit tedious setting up the miter box for the correct depth of cut and the sawing took some time. I chose another method for neck #3. I purchased the StewMac thin kerf fret slot cutting circular saw blade for use in my radial arm saw. I cut a special fence and installed a pin to engage the template notches.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/FretFencePin.jpg
Sidebar: I'm a big fan of the radial arm saw having used mine extensively over the last 30 years. I've recently discovered that DeWalt no longer makes them and they were not shown in a recent copy of the Sears tool catalog. Probably less call for them with the advent of the sliding compound miter saw. I think they are still being made by a company in Canada but they may only be large industrial models.
Here's neck #3 after cutting the slots. This probably took only about four minutes. The template has been taped to a piece of 1/4 in. MDF with a centerline drawn on it. The neck is taped to the MDF with the neck centerline aligned to the line on the MDF.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/SpecialFencePin.jpg
With the fret slots cut we're ready to radius the fingerboard. I used the StewMac 9.5 in. radius sanding block with 100 grit self stick paper and some elbow grease followed by 320 paper.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/FretBoardRadius.jpg
Next step ...... drilling for the fret board markers.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/DrillingForMarkers.jpg
Glueing in the fretboard markers. These markers were purchased from StewMac. I think they're 15/64 in. I used a super glue gel. After the glue set, I sanded them flush with the radius block and 320 paper.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/GlueingMarkers.jpg
Here I'm preparing to drill for the side dot markers. I'm using the level to choose a riser block for the heel to make the bass side of the neck parallel to the drill press table. I'm using 2mm plastic rod I purchased some time ago from Warmoth.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/SideMarkers-1.jpg
Here a picture showing the holes I drilled from the headstock into the truss rod channel. The top one is a 1/4 in hole drilled using a guide block in the jig. The second one was done more or less free hand. Both are a little off to the treble side. Looks fixable to me.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/Acessholes.jpg
Since I have room for one more picture in this post here's a picture of neck #2 which will have the truss rod adjustment at the headstock. The channel is was routed to within about 3/4 in. of the end. A 1/2 in hole was drilled with its center about 1/2 in. from the end with the depth the same as the channel at that point.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/HeelAnchorHole.jpg
Haven't done any work on the necks recently so I thought I should get back to it. In this installment I'll be making the truss rod. This first picture shows a little jig I made for cutting the anchor slugs from 1/2 in. steel rod.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/SawingAnchorSlug.jpg
Here's the cut slug
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/SlugCut.jpg
I've chucked the slug into the drill press and am using a file to clean up the cut ends.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/FilingSlug.jpg
Drilling the anchor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/DrillingAnchor.jpg
Tapping the anchor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/Threadinganchor.jpg
Threading the rod.
file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Jackass/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/ThreadingRod.jpg
The anchor is screwed on to the end of the rod and secured by center-punching the rod several times
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/SecuringAnchor.jpg
A filler strip was cut from 3/4 in walnut. After running the strip through the thickness planer to get thickness right, I hit the corners of one end with a sanding block then rounded the end by dragging sandpaper over the end.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/RoundingFillerStrip.jpg
I used the channel routing jig to draw the channel curve on the filler strip. I then bandsawed it and sanded to the line with the oscillating drum sander.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/DrawingCurveOnFillerStrip.jpg
Here's the neck, truss rod and filler strip ready for installation.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/NeckRodFiller.jpg
Here's the truss rod installation. In his book Melvyn Hiscock suggests putting the rod into plastic tubing if the proper sized tubing can be found. I couldn't find it. As an alternative he suggests soda straws. The purpose is to prevent the rod from sticking. The straws I had were a little larger in diameter than the rod so I split them lengthwise so they could wrap around the rod.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/ReadyToInstall.jpg
Here's the truss rod installed and ready to be hidden.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/TrussRodInstalled.jpg
After glue is applied to the sides of the filler strip it is inserted and clamped.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/FilletGluedandClamped.jpg
With the anchor recessed slightly there's no chance of nicking the plane blade during the next step.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/RecessedAnchor.jpg
Planing to remove most of the exposed wood.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/PlaningFiller.jpg
Sanding the back of the neck to check the fit of the filler strip.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/SandingLevel.jpg
Here's how it fits.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/FillerFit.jpg
more to come. Next up......... shaping the back contour. Here are the tools I've gathered for the neck shaping.........
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/NeckShapingTools.jpg
Started the neck shaping yesterday afternoon. I started by taking some heel measurements on a Fender neck and marking them on my neck along with the 12th fret.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/HeelMarks.jpg
I marked the first fret location and the headstock flat line.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/OtherEndMarks.jpg
I started roughing out the heel transition area with this Sureform round rasp.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/RoughingHeelEnd.jpg
I then used the rasp at the headstock end. It seems to work best holding it so it cuts on the pull stroke.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/RoughingHeadstockEnd.jpg
Here I'm using a spokeshave to remove wood between the two roughed out areas. I don't have much experience using a spokeshave and this wasn't going well. I seem to get a lot of chatter as I pull.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/UsingSpokeShave.jpg
I seem to have better luck using the ole Stanley hand plane.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/UsingHandPlane.jpg
After roughing out the shape, I think I've found my shaping tool of choice........... the Ridgid belt sander. The sander is short enough to work between the first and 12th frets. Here I'm just rocking the neck back and forth letting the sander do the work. This works great because you don't have the neck clamped to a table. You can instantly check the feel of it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/BeltSander1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/BeltSander2.jpg
Here's another great tool for neck shaping....... the orbital sander. This is great for working on the transition areas at the heel and headstock.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/OrbitalSander1.jpg
If you don't have the Ridgid belt sander you could probably use an orbital sander with coarse paper and rock the neck back and forth like I'm doing here.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/OrbitalSander2.jpg
Well ............ it's starting to look like a neck. Still a little too chunky for me but I've purposely gone slow because you can always remove more wood but can't put it back.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/StartingLookLikeNeck.jpg
后接第二种。
[ 本帖最后由 坏头脑 于 2009-7-27 16:10 编辑 ] 经典，非常的细腻 精彩！ 第二种方法，后接琴体和打磨块的制作方法。
so.....one day last month i decided to make me a Tele and doing a google search for tele blueprint brought me here to tdowns Rev D PDF then to ehawley's '53 CNC build thread, thats all it took to get me started, I only had to buy a router , everything else i had laying around, so i started making my jigs and templates
these were easy enough
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5112.jpg
then the neck stuff
neck template
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5119.jpg
and truss rod jig
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5093.jpg
fret slot cuttin jig
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5128.jpg
here's my strait sandin fret board jig
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5165.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5161.jpg
the drill grinder
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5189.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5204.jpg
drill bit guide
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5210.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5209.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5218.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5213.jpg
few necks in the works
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5253.jpg
done so far
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5239.jpg
the sanding block is 7.25, and I also made a 9.5
the camera batteries were dead when I did these but I screwed the router to a board, plunged a hole and measured 7.25 and 9.5 from the front of bit and nailed it to the bench so that it swung side to side
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5269.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5270.jpg
then cut a bunch of pieces of 3/4" wood to this shape
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5264.jpg
then glued them all together
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5265.jpg
Always wondered what to do with that old bed frame!
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5165.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5272.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5274.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5282.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5283.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5283.jpg
注意，十拼琴体出现了。
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5306.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5307.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5308.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/101_5309.jpg
here's my new metal lathe
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC01495.jpg
cuts nice straight parts for my truss rods
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC01497.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC01500.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC01501.jpg
here's my rig doing some freehand carving
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC02399.jpg
and a box jig to do some angle routing
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC02407.jpg
sweet
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC02406.jpg
and a little neck pocket routing
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC02416.jpg
after a little sanding
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/SL730716.jpg
not to bad
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/SL730690.jpg
then I needed a 12" radius fretboard jig so I cut some pieces
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC02431.jpg
and added them to the thing
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC02435.jpg
then took the extra cut off pieces and thought i could put them on there too and flip it over for some sanding block making action
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC02445.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/DSC02446.jpg
yep it worked
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/shanesby/SL730719.jpg
Finished. 真细致啊 专业！！ 看不懂字 顶一个～楼主分享～ 继续，细腻细腻 好帖子收藏了 好啊。。好。。好 我 KAO ！！！
无敌了！！！ 普若发身诺！！！
牛！ 必须顶一个，，太细致了！！！ 我想借这贴告示那些做琴的“商人” 注意 是商人 而不是那些爱好者
看见这贴了没有 标准的 技术贴 图文兼备 别老是一下子就发个成品图出来 直接发成品图 没有制作过程的 一律视为商业贴 立马删除 没什么好说 GC高层规定！
顶楼主 希望以后多发精品帖子 老外的工具真让人眼馋啊 这乃智慧！ 这就是tele的一体颈吗？真好，怎么避免变形的？ 学习学习············
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